Cypriot Anglias
How memorable and sad and true and special was tonight's conversation with 70 year old Serge of Nicosia, 10 year veteran of this hostel. His slow manner of speech and gait masking the wisdom and humour behind his eyes and untamed white beard. The best 70 cents paid, to get him a drink and sit with him for awhile. Slow at first the conversation, covering the usual ground, but gradually there are lines released spontaneously, after a few sips of magical liquid that does ease the tensions on a Friday.
Tonight was not a night for Empire club, or Basement, or Library, and certainly not the ridiculousness of that Irish "Pub". It was for those moments with Serge, another instance of connection with a being so un-alike in age and circumstance of life experience but yet so similar in the important ways. Trying to capture in words his sayings almost beside the point - and he even had a foreboding line on that, too - but because they do not deserve to fade let them be remembered here.
His summarizing of his reasons for his whirlwind tour of Europe in his early days hit the mark - "I went only to catch the difference in the places, from Athens up to Paris or wherever, to catch the impressions. I never considered that 'traveling' to be honest, it was something else entirely." His first trip actually to East Africa ("you can imagine the impact on a young boy from Cyprus, which is poor with animals") and he never escaped that call.
But what was best about the trading of stories was how clearly tired he is. He can no longer throw on the backpack. He wasn't insistent about it, but he wanted that to be clear. "Ah, at 30, 31, I remember. It is a realization - you are not old, but you are no longer young either. Quickly, then you are 40, and then you have to take a look around! And wonder a bit more seriously at the choices!" And then the perceptive insight - "You remember you were saying about the amount of food in the meze. You eat and you eat and you eat and there comes a point you can eat no more. Imagine that feeling, trying to eat more when you are full. You cannot. It is uncomfortable and unpleasant. That is now how the idea of far-flung travel to the corners of the world is for me. Even though I like it, I cannot take more."
Then there is Dean in the background as well - the self-described 60-year old bastard - who is currently occupying a room in this hostel for the longest consecutive time in his life, since 3.5 years in Morocco. Teacher of English and character, waiting for his mom to die to soak the last part out of life. He would be hard to take in bunches (especially compared to the quiet Serge) but their is inspiration there too - not being tied down, and damn the consequences. Teach English if you have to, and you can, but if the road is life then you can surely manage, right?
But it was Serge who was the revelation, and will be, of the time in Cyprus, even as you are unlikely to meet again except to say farewell. He recommended the Cypriot Anglias as a late-night tonic, and as I drink it now I remember two other key points among the other words. The first about the quantity of memory and giving up photography. He had run out of patience with the stacks of pictures and so just stopped always being so pre-occupied by it. But, it is okay because you can only store so much in your head anyway, he says. But it is easier now for travelers, I say. It is easier with the digital camera to just take the pictures and store them on the computer for when you need them. You are missing the point, he says. There still comes a point where it is TOO MUCH. Wait, when you are older you will see. Whether you have the pictures or notes on a computer somewhere or not. I hope he is wrong, but that follow-up did catch me off guard in a way that made me think.
And then of course, the end. His thanking you for the conversation, how it brought back to him some fond memories. There is some of him in you. His idealism and concern and ultimate passivity in the face of politics. His quiet resignation. His eyes and smile and easy laughter. Both these guys at the hostel a cautionary tale but also a reminder of what is important. In such ways. At this time of thought on what must be next. Amidst the bars and the impulsive checking of the fb profile feed and the rest. What must be next can and must truly be what you decide, consciously.
For it is later than you think. The empty tomb of the kings, the dust of Kourion, the impassive horizon, the creeping tick-tock of the hours, on vacation or otherwise, the need to keep finding the spark of spontaneity over and over again. The tide waits not, and neither should you.
Let that be the lesson of this mediterranean look-out. And leave the rest of the Anglias as a farewell gift to Serge.
